Mara Blouse (DK and 4-ply)

> Enjoy 25% off all patterns until 3 > August 2026 at 11:59 pm BST, no code > needed. Happy knitting! The Mara Blouse is a boatneck sweater with stripes inspired by classic nautical fashion. It is worked top-down, and you will begin by working flat before working in the round. You will begin by casting on the back panel, which is shaped with increases on the right and wrong sides of the work. From there, you will pick up and knit stitches along the diagonal edges of the work to form the right and left shoulders in turn before once again picking up and knitting stitches to form the sleeves to form a set-in sleeve effect. You will then work neckline and sleeve shaping. Once the neckline shaping is complete, you will join to work in the round and continue to shape the sleeves whilst also introducing the contrast colour stripes. At a certain point in the yoke, you will start to work increases in the body sections as well as the sleeves at various rates, depending on the size you are making, to ensure a good fit for all sizes. You will then work the length of the body, which is finished with a simple I-cord cast-off, before applying the collar and then working the length of the sleeves. You can keep the sleeves wider with minimal or no shaping, or taper the sleeves slightly to suit your preferences. The pattern is available in both a DK and a 4-ply weight (20 stitches x 30 rows/rounds and 28 stitches x 37 rows/rounds respectively) within this download. There is also a separate file with photos of the shoulder construction for those who prefer a visual aid. The Mara Blouse has been tech edited and test knitted. Should you require pattern support, please contact me by email (the.knit.purl.girl2020@gmail.com) where possible, or use the contact form on my website. This pattern isn’t technically demanding as such, but the construction may throw newer knitters off as there is a lot of picking up and knitting stitches, breaking and re-joining yarn, and working with multiple increase rates through the yoke. I am always happy to help, though, so please don’t hesitate to get in touch if you need some additional support. Including a photo of your work is always appreciated. — **Mara Blouse DK Weight** **Materials and Fit** **Notions:** You will need 4 mm / US 6 circular needles with 40-, 60-, and 80-cm / 16-, 24-, and 32-in cords; 3.5 mm / US 4 circular needles with 40-, 60-, and 80-cm / 16-, 24-, and 32-in cords. If you’re making one of the larger sizes, you may also find it helpful to have both needles with a 100-cm / 40-in cord. You will also need at least 4 ring stitch markers, your preferred stitch holder (i.e., scrap yarn, a set of spare needles, or a cord), a darning needle, and you may find some clip-on markers helpful to track your work. **Tension:** 20 stitches x 30 rounds = 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 in in Stockinette stitch on 4 mm / US 6 needles. **Sizing and ease:** The Mara Blouse DK has a recommended positive ease of 8-13 cm / 3.25–5.25 in for Sizes A-H, and 3-13 cm / 1.25-5.25 in for Sizes I-L. However, if you wanted less ease, you would be welcome to choose a smaller size relative to your chest measurement and vice versa. **Size:** A (B) C (D), **E (F) G (H)**, I (J) K (L) **Chest measurement (cm):** 75-80 (80-85) 85-90 (90-95), **95-100 (100-105) 105-110 (110-115)**, 115-125 (125-135) 135-145 (145-155) **Chest measurement (in):** 29.5-31.5 (31.5-33.5) 33.5-35.5 (35.5-37.5), **37.5-39.25 (39.25-41.25) 41.25-43.25 (43.25-45.25)**, 45.25-49.25 (49.25-53.25) 53.25-57 (57-61) **Actual circumference of garment at chest (cm):** 88 (94) 98 (104), **108 (114) 118 (124)**, 128 (138) 148 (158) **Actual circumference of garment at chest (in):** 34.75 (37) 38.5 (41), **42.5 (45) 46.5 (48.75)**, 50.5 (54.25) 58.25 (62.25) **Armhole depth (cm):** 19.5 (20) 21 (21), **21.5 (21.5) 22.5 (22.5)**, 23 (24) 25 (25.5) **Armhole depth (in):** 7.75 (8) 8.25 (8.25), **8.5 (8.5) 8.75 (8.75)**, 9 (9.5) 9.75 (10) **Body length from cast-on edge to hem at centre back (cm):** 52.5 (53.5) 54 (54), **54.5 (54.5) 56 (56)**, 56.5 (57.5) 58.5 (59.5) **Body length from cast-on edge to start of hem at centre back (in):** 20.75 (21) 21.25 (21.25), **21.5 (21.5) 22 (22)**, 22.25 (22.75) 23 (23.5) **Sleeve circumference at bicep (cm):** 32 (33) 34 (35), **37 (38) 39 (40)**, 42 (45) 49 (53) **Sleeve circumference at bicep (in):** 12.5 (13) 13.5 (13.75), **14.5 (15) 15.25 (15.75)**, 16.5 (17.75) 19.25 (20.75) **Long sleeve length (cm):** 45 **Long sleeve length (in):** 17.75 **Short sleeve length (cm):** 8 **Short sleeve length (in):** 3.25 **Yarn:** For my long sleeve sample (Size C), I used Knitting for Olive Merino (100% merino wool; 50g = 250 m / 273.5 yds) held double in the shades Cream (main colour) and Navy Blue (Contrast colour). I am currently working on a short sleeve sample using Gepard CottonWool 5 (50% cotton, 50% merino wool; 50 g = 100 m / 109.5 yds in the shades Midnight Blue 760 (main colour) and Dusty Red 355 (contrast colour). The second sample is still a work in progress and I will update the listing with finished photos as soon as possible. If you want to use a different fingering-weight yarn held double and make your blouse with long sleeves, I estimate that you will need 1780 (1880) 1960 (2040), **2130 (2200) 2290 (2370)**, 2430 (2600) 2760 (2950) m / 1950 (2060) 2140 (2230), **2330 (2400) 2500 (2600)**, 2660 (2840) 3020 (3220) yds of your main colour, and 400 (420) 440 (460), **480 (500) 510 (530)**, 550 (580) 620 (660) m / 440 (460) 480 (500), **530 (540) 560 (580)**, 600 (640) 680 (720) yds of your contrast colour. If you want to use a different DK-weight yarn held single and make your blouse with long sleeves, I estimate that you will need 890 (940) 980 (1020), **1065 (1100) 1145 (1185)**, 1215 (1300) 1380 (1475) m / 975 (1030) 1070 (1115), **1165 (1200) 1250 (1300)**, 1330 (1420) 1510 (1610) yds of your main colour, and 200 (210) 220 (230), **240 (250) 255 (265)**, 275 (290) 310 (330) m / 220 (230) 240 (250), **265 (270) 280 (290)**, 300 (320) 340 (360) yds of your contrast colour. **Note:** If you are making the tapered sleeves, I estimate that you will need 10-30 m / 10-40 yds less of fingering-weight yarn held double or 5-15 m / 5-20 yds less of DK-weight yarn held single. If you want to use a different fingering-weight yarn held double and make your blouse with short sleeves, I estimate that you will need 1230 (1320) 1380 (1440), **1500 (1550) 1620 (1690)**, 1720 (1830) 1920 (2040) m / 1350 (1440) 1510 (1580), **1640 (1690) 1780 (1850)**, 1880 (2000) 2110 (2240) yds of your main colour, and 260 (280) 290 (310), **320 (330) 350 (360)**, 370 (390) 410 (440) m / 290 (310) 320 (340), **350 (360) 380 (400)**, 400 (430) 450 (480) yds of your contrast colour. If you want to use a different DK-weight yarn held single and make your blouse with short sleeves, I estimate that you will need 615 (660) 690 (720), **750 (775) 810 (845)**, 860 (915) 960 (1020) m / 675 (720) 755 (790), **820 (845) 890 (925)**, 940 (1000) 1055 (1120) yds of your main colour, and 130 (140) 145 (155), **160 (165) 175 (180)**, 185 (195) 205 (220) m / 145 (155) 160 (170), **175 (180) 190 (200)**, 200 (215) 225 (240) yds of your contrast colour. — **Mara Blouse 4-Ply Weight** **Materials and Fit** **Notions:** You will need 2.5 mm / US 1.5 circular needles with 40-, 60-, and 80-cm / 16-, 24-, and 32-in cords; 3 mm / US 2.5 circular needles with 40-, 60-, and 80-cm / 16-, 24-, and 32-in cords. If you’re making one of the larger sizes, you may also find it helpful to have both needles with a 100-cm / 40-in cord. You will also need at least 4 ring stitch markers, your preferred stitch holder (i.e., scrap yarn, a set of spare needles, or a cord), a darning needle, and you may find some clip-on markers helpful to track your work. **Tension:** 28 stitches x 37 rounds = 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 in in Stockinette stitch on 3 mm / US 2.5 needles. **Sizing and ease:** The Mara Blouse 4-ply has a recommended positive ease of 8-13.5 cm / 3.25–5.25 in for Sizes A-H, and 3.5-13.5 cm / 1.5-5.25 in for Sizes I-L. However, if you wanted less ease, you would be welcome to choose a smaller size relative to your chest measurement and vice versa. **Size:** A (B) C (D), **E (F) G (H)**, I (J) K (L) **Chest measurement (cm):** 75-80 (80-85) 85-90 (90-95), **95-100 (100-105) 105-110 (110-115)**, 115-125 (125-135) 135-145 (145-155) **Chest measurement (in):** 29.5-31.5 (31.5-33.5) 33.5-35.5 (35.5-37.5), **37.5-39.25 (39.25-41.25) 41.25-43.25 (43.25-45.25)**, 45.25-49.25 (49.25-53.25) 53.25-57 (57-61) **Actual circumference of garment at chest (cm):** 88.5 (93) 98.5 (103), **108.5 (113) 118.5 (123)**, 128.5 (138.5) 148.5 (158.5) **Actual circumference of garment at chest (in):** 34.75 (36.5) 38.75 (40.5), **42.75 (44.5) 46.75 (48.25)**, 50.5 (54.5) 58.5 (62.5) **Armhole depth (cm):** 19.5 (20) 20.5 (21), **22 (21.5) 22 (22.5)**, 23 (24) 25 (25.5) **Armhole depth (in):** 7.75 (8) 8.25 (8.25), **8.5 (8.5) 8.75 (9)**, 9 (9.5) 9.75 (10) **Body length from cast-on edge to hem at centre back (cm):** 53 (53.5) 54 (54.5), **55 (55) 55.5 (56.5)**, 57 (58) 59 (59.5) **Body length from cast-on edge to start of hem at centre back (in):** 20.75 (21) 21.25 (21.5), **21.75 (21.75) 21.75 (22.25)**, 22.5 (22.75) 23.25 (23.5) **Sleeve circumference at bicep (cm):** 31.5 (33) 34.5 (35), **36.5 (38) 39.5 (40)**, 41.5 (45) 49.5 (53) **Sleeve circumference at bicep (in):** 12.25 (13) 13.5 (13.75), **14.25 (15) 15.5 (15.75)**, 16.25 (17.75) 19.5 (20.75) **Long sleeve length (cm):** 45 **Long sleeve length (in):** 17.75 **Short sleeve length (cm):** 8 **Short sleeve length (in):** 3.25 **Yarn:** For my first sample (short sleeves), I used Søstrene Grene Cotton Yarn 8/4 (100% cotton 50g = 160 m / 175 yds) held single in the shades #11-0701 (white; main colour) and #18-1663 (red; contrast colour). For my second sample (long sleeves), I used Isager Mulberry Silk (100% silk; 25 g = 210 m [230 yds] held with Isager Trio 1 (50% linen, 30% cotton and 20% lyocell; 50 g = 350 m [383 yds]) in the shades Bordeaux and Linen. However any 4-ply/fingering-weight yarn, or combination of lace-weight yarns, will work well for this pattern, so long as you meet gauge. Both samples are Size C. The cotton yarn has a good amount of structure and is very nice, but I did find that the garment became very heavy as I worked through it and the white was quite discoloured in parts. It’s a great budget-friendly option, but proceed with some caution. The combination of Isager yarns is much more expensive, but if you love fabric with lots of sheen and drape, it’s a fantastic option. For the long sleeve option, I estimate that you will need 940 (980) 1040 (1080), **1130 (1180) 1220 (1280)**, 1370 (1480) 1600 (1740) m / 1030 (1080) 1140 (1190), **1240 (1290) 1340 (1400)**, 1500 (1620) 1750 (1910) yds of your main colour, and 210 (220) 230 (240), **250 (260) 270 (280)**, 300 (330) 360 (390) m / 230 (240) 260 (270), **280 (290) 300 (310)**, 330 (370) 400 (430) yds of your contrast colour. **Note:** If you are making the tapered sleeves, I estimate that you will need 10-30 m / 10-40 yds less of fingering-weight yarn. For the short sleeve option, I estimate that you will need 690 (730) 770 (820), **850 (890) 920 (980)**, 1060 (1150) 1260 (1380) m / 760 (800) 850 (900), **930 (980) 1010 (1080)**, 1160 (1260) 1380 (1510) yds] of your main colour, and 150 (160) 170 (180), **190 (200) 210 (220)**, 240 (260) 280 (310) m / 170 (180) 190 (200), **210 (220) 230 (240)**, 270 (290) 310 (340) yds of your contrast colour. — **A quick note on stripes** In this pattern, I suggest that you begin working in your main colour and then introduce your contrast colour shortly after joining in the round. Notes on this are given in the pattern copy. I suggest working 2 rounds in your contrast colour and 8 rounds in your main colour and the yardage calculations given above are based on this stripe pattern. For one of my 4-ply samples, however, I worked 4 rounds in each colour throughout. This increases the difficulty of the pattern as you need to work backwards at the shoulder pick-up to make sure that you will be working in the correct colour as you join in the round. It also affects how much yarn you need of each colour (approximately a 50:50 split). If you need help with this, please don’t hesitate to contact me by email where I’ll happily provide guidance.