Chantilly Cardigan

**Construction** The back panel is worked flat and stitches put on hold. Stitches are picked up at the shoulders and front panels are worked separately. Back and front panels are joined at the underarm and the body is worked flat with the button bands incorporated. The shoulder seam runs along the back, rather than the top of the shoulder so your front panels will be longer than the back panel. Stitches are picked up at the armholes and sleeves are worked in the round with decreases along the inner upper arm and a rapid decrease at the cuff. Stitches for the collar are picked up around the neckline with short rows used to raise the back of the collar. **Sizing** When choosing which size to knit it is best to go by the chest measurement if possible as all bodies are different, and the sizes are only a suggestion. Chest measurements are of the actual garment (with buttons done up), with a recommended 5-10cm/2-4" positive ease at the chest. **Gauge and Choosing Yarn** It is always a good idea to gauge swatch to make sure your garment fits and you’re happy with the fabric you’re creating. The body of the Cardigan is worked with 2 strands of light fingering or fingering weight yarn held with 1 strand of mohair. This roughly equates to an Aran weight yarn. The collar is worked with 1 strand of light fingering or fingering weight yarn held with 1 strand of mohair and roughly equates to a DK weight. The ruffle is worked with a single strand of light fingering or fingering weight yarn, or you could use 1 or two strands of mohair, though you will need more yarn than recommended. There is no reason why you couldn’t use a single strand of Aran for the body and a different strand of DK for the collar and it would be a great way to use up scraps, however it’s good to bear in mind how different fibres behave so using the same fibres throughout is recommended. Have fun with your yarn choice and make sure to gauge swatch! **Techniques** Knitting Flat Knitting in the Round Picking up stitches Increasing Decreasing Bottonholes (YO) Blocking Short rows (optional) **Sizes**: 1 **2** 3 **4** 5 (**6** 7 **8** 9 **10**) **Chest circ**: 75 **85** 95 **104** 117 (**128.5** 138 **150** 160.5 **171**)cm / 29.5 **33.5** 37.5 **41** 46 (**50.5** 54.25 **59** 63.25 **67.25**)” **Gauge**: 16 sts x 24 rows = 4 x 4”/10 x10cm, stockinette worked flat on 5.5mm needles, blocked (2 strands light fingering/fingering, 1 lace) **Needles**: 3.5mm for ruffle, 4.5mm for rib/collar, 5.5mm circular needles for body/ sleeves with 40/80cm / 16/30” cables or needles required to meet gauge **Yarn**: 2 strands of light fingering/fingering weight yarn 1500 **1500** 1800 **1800** 2100 (**2100** 2400 **2700** 3000 **3300**) metres / 1640 **1640** 1968 **1968** 2296 (**2296** 2624 **2952** 3280 **3608**) yards **held with** 1 strand of lace weight silk mohair. 840 **840** 1050 **1050** 1260 (**1260** 1470 **1680** 1890 **2100**) metres / 918 **918** 1148 **1148** 1377 (**1377** 1607 **1837** 2066 **2296**) yards **Sample uses**: Filcolana Saga 100% Lambswool 300m/328yds per 50g held with Lana Gatto Silk Mohair 75% Mohair 25% Silk 212m/232yds per 25g **Accessories**: stitch markers, embroidery needle, scissors **Buttons**: 5 **5** 5 **5** 5 (**6** 6 **7** 7 **8**) 20mm buttons