Pernille Sweater and Dress

Sizes: 1 (2) 3 (4) 5 (6) ● Level: 4/5 ● The Pernille knits were born from this exact philosophy. They feature a simple cable pattern that, when expanded into a larger surface, becomes so rich and texturized that no other design elements are required. First, I created a beautiful sweater, and because I fell completely in love with knitting it, I extended the pattern into a maxi dress. The sweater features a low, folded collar and a relaxed fit, making it effortless to pair with trousers. The dress has a high collar and a slit nested into the left side to allow for easy movement. You can style the dress to suit your silhouette by adding a belt. * FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Bust Circumference: 88 (104) 120 (136) 152 (168) cm / 35.25 (41.5) 48 (54.5) 60.75 (67.25)". Sweater Total Length (from neckline to hem): 61 (61) 61 (64) 64 (66) cm / 24.5 (24.5) 24.5 (25.5) 25.5 (26.5)".* Dress Total Length (from neckline to hem): 125 cm / 50" in all sizes.* Upper Arm Circumference: 40 (40) 44 (48) 52 (52) cm / 16 (16) 17.5 (19.25) 20.75 (20.75)". Sleeve Length: Approx. 50 cm / 20" in all sizes. *Or your preferred length CHOOSING YOUR SIZE The sweater is designed with 0–15 cm / 0–6" of positive ease at the bust, meaning the fit is intentionally quite close-fitting. Measure your own bust circumference, add 0–15 cm / 0–6" and find the closest size in the size chart. You can also measure a favorite sweater you already own. It’s also worth measuring your preferred sleeve width at the upper arm. Hem length can easily be adjusted to taste. If you prefer a longer sweater, you will need more yarn. For the dress, the same sizing as the sweater applies, so also measure your hip circumference to make sure the stated bust circumference is enough for your hips as well. If you want a roomier fit at the hips, go one size up. Hem length can easily be adjusted to taste. Sample sweater and dress in size 2, model’s bust 80 cm / 31.5", height 173 cm / 68". MATERIALS Yarn Sweater Yarn 1: Knitting for Olive Merino (100% merino, 250 m / 273 yds – 50 g). 280 (300) 350 (400) 450 (500) g in the colourway Marzipan. Or 1400 (1500) 1750 (2000) 2250 (2500) m / 1531 (1641) 1914 (2187) 2461 (2734) yds of fingering-weight yarn. Yarn 2: Knitting for Olive Soft Silk Mohair (70% mohair, 30% silk, 225 m / 246 yds – 25 g). 160 (170) 200 (225) 250 (275) g in the colourway Marzipan. Or 1440 (1530) 1800 (2025) 2250 (2475) m / 1575 (1675) 1970 (2215) 2460 (2710) yds of lace-weight mohair yarn. The sweater is worked holding both yarns together. Dress (without the belt) Yarn 1: Knitting for Olive Cotton Merino (70% cotton, 30% merino, 250 m / 273 yds – 50 g). 430 (480) 550 (620) 690 (740) g in the colourway Mole. Or 2150 (2400) 2750 (3100) 3450 (3700) m / 2350 (2625) 3008 (3390) 3775 (40475) yds of fingering-weight yarn. Yarn 2: Gepard Cashmere Lace (100% cashmere, 330 m / 361 yds – 25 g). 160 (175) 200 (225) 250 (275) g in the colourway Walnut Wood (146). Or 2112 (2310) 2640 (2970) 3300 (3630) m / 2310 (2530) 2890 (3250) 3610 (3970) yds of lace-weight yarn. The dress is worked holding both yarns together. Belt (optional): 35 g of fingering-weight yarn held together with a lace-weight yarn. If you have a little bit less than a full skein left of both yarns, knit a belt for your dress. Other yarn options for fingering-weight yarn include Sandnes Garn Sunday or Cascade 220 Fingering and for lace-weight yarn Isager Silk Mohair or Lang Yarns Cashmere Extra Lace. Needles 3.5 mm (US 4) Long circular needle for the body. DPNs for sleeves, if you don’t use the magic loop technique. 2.75 mm (US 2) Long circular needle for the hem ribbing. DPNs for sleeve cuffs, if you don’t use the magic loop technique. Short circular needle for the neckband. Notions Cable needle, stitch markers, stitch holders or waste yarn, tapestry needle. GAUGE 25 sts x 28 rows = 10 cm / 4" in cable pattern with 3.5 mm (US 4) needle. Cable pattern repeat: 20 sts x 20 rows = approx. 8 cm x 7 cm / 3.25" x 2.75". CONSTRUCTION The sweater is worked from the top down. First, the back piece is worked flat with European shoulder structure. Stitches for the front pieces are picked up from the shoulder seams and worked down to the underarms, after which the body is joined in the round. Sleeve stitches are picked up from the armholes and worked in the round with sleeve decreases. All edges are finished with a tubular bind-off. Finally, the neckband is worked in ribbing. The dress is worked the same way, but a slit is added to the left side of the hem to allow ease of movement.