Coco Sweater

Coco Sweater is an oversized drop shoulder sweater that is worked in a broken rib texture. The neckline is worked in stockinette to create an elegant neckline that is in contrast with the structure. The cuffs and hem are worked in a half-twisted rib. The sweater comes in two different versions where the first version uses a little lighter yarn and has less positive ease keeping it more feminine. The second version has more positive ease and is a little shorter, giving it a boxier look. The white sweater follows the pattern for version 1 and the red sweater the pattern for version 2. **VERSION 1** Size guide The sizes 1 (2) 3 (4) 5 (6) 7 (8) are designed for a chest measurement of 75-80 (80-85) 85-90 (90-100) 100-110 (110-120) 120-130 (130-140) cm / 29,5-31,5 (31,5-33,5) 33,5-35,4 (35,4-39,4) 39,4-43,3 (43,3-47,2) 47,2-51,2 (51,2-55,1) inches This version is designed to have a positive ease of 15-20 cm / 5,9-7,9 inches around the chest. Gauge (measured after blocking) 22 stitches x 32 rows on needle 4,0 in pattern = 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches Bust circumference finished sweater 98 (102) 108 (116) 124 (134) 145 (156) cm / 38,6 (40,2) 42,5 (45,6) 48,9 (52,8) 57 (61,4) inches Length finished sweater 46 (48) 50 (52) 54 (56) 58 (60) cm / 18,1 (18,9) 19,7 (20,5) 21,3 (22) 22,8 (23,6) inches measured from back without the collar Upper arm circumference 34 (36) 38 (40) 42 (44) 46 (48) cm / 13,4 (14,2) 15 (15,8) 16,6 (17,3) 18,1 (18,9) inches Sleeve length 39 (40) 40 (42) 42 (44) 44 (46) cm / 15,4 (15,75) 15,75 (16,5) 16,5 (17,3) 17,3 (18,1) inches Needles Circular needles 4,0 mm /US 6 40 cm and 80 cm. Circular needles 3,0 mm / US 2,5 40 cm and 80 cm. Circular needles 2,5 mm / US 1,5 40 cm Double pointed needles 3,0 mm / US 2,5 (unless you are using the Magic Loop technique) Notions Two removable markers Stitch holders or scrap yarn to put stitches on hold Tapestry needle to weave in ends Yarn 250 (250) 300 (300) 350 (400) 400 (450) g Knitting for Olive Merino (50 g = 250 m) held together with 125 (150) 150 (175) 175 (200) 200 (225) g Knitting for Olive Soft Silk Mohair (25 g = 225 m). The pictured sweater is knitted in Merino and Soft Silk Mohair in colour Cloud. Possible yarn alternatives: Drops Flora held together with Drops Kid-Silk Sandnes Tynn Peer Gynt or Sunday held together with Sandnes Tynn Silk Mohair **VERSION 2** Size guide The sizes 1 (2) 3 (4) 5 (6) 7 (8) are designed for a chest measurement of 75-80 (80-85) 85-90 (90-100) 100-110 (110-120) 120-130 (130-140) cm / 29,5-31,5 (31,5-33,5) 33,5-35,4 (35,4-39,4) 39,4-43,3 (43,3-47,2) 47,2-51,2 (51,2-55,1) inches Version 2 is designed to have a positive ease of 25-30 cm / 9,8-11,8 inches around the chest. Gauge (measured after blocking) 20 stitches x 30 rows on needle 4,5 in pattern = 10+ x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches Bust circumference finished sweater 108 (112) 118 (126) 134 (144) 155 (166) cm / 42,5 (44) 46,5 (49,6) 52,8 (56,7) 61 (65,4) inches Length finished sweater 44 (46) 48 (50) 52 (54) 56 (58) cm / 17,3 (18,1) 18,9 (19,7) 20,5 (21,3) 22) (22,8) inches measured from back without the collar Upper arm circumference 34 (36) 38 (40) 42 (44) 46 (48) cm / 13,4 (14,2) 15 (15,8) 16,6 (17,3) 18,1 (18,9) inches Sleeve length 39 (40) 40 (42) 42 (44) 44 (46) cm / 15,4 (15,75) 15,75 (16,5) 16,5 (17,3) 17,3 (18,1) inches Needles Circular needles 4,5 mm / US 7 40 cm and 80 cm. Circular needles 3,5 mm/ US 4 40 cm and 80 cm. Circular needles 3,0 mm/ US 2,5 40 cm Double pointed needles 3,5 mm /US 3 (unless you are using the Magic Loop technique) Notions Two removable markers Stitch holders or scrap yarn to put stitches on hold Tapestry needle to weave in ends Yarn 500 (550) 550 (600) 650 (650) 700 (750) g of Nakyang Yarn I’m Wool 2 (50 g = 200 m). Please note that the pattern uses two strands held together throughout. The pictured sweater is knitted in I’m Wool 2 colour 128 Wine. **OVERVIEW OF THE PATTERN** First, you will work the back section in the flat with increases in order to create a shoulder seam. The shoulder seam will have the same structure as the rest of the sweater. The stitches from the shoulder seam will be put on hold when the increases are finished and will then form part of each sleeve. After working the back section, you will let those stitches rest and pick up stitches along the left shoulder seam to work the left frontside in the flat. The neckline will be shaped with increases. When the left frontside is finished, you will let those stitches rest and pick up stitches along the right shoulder seam to create the right frontside in the flat. The neckline will be shaped with increases. When the increases to shape the neckline are done, you will join the frontside to finish the frontside in the flat. When the frontside is finished, you will put the stitches from the back section back on your needles. You will then join the work in the round and pick up stitches under each sleeve. You will then work the body in the round. The body will be finished with a half-twisted rib. You will pick up stitches along the back section, the frontside and under the sleeves and join these with the resting stitches from the shoulder seam to knit the sleeves. The sleeves will be worked in the round and will be finished with a half-twisted rib. Stitches for the collar will be picked up along the back section, frontsides and along the cast on stitches between the two frontsides. The collar will be worked in the round in stockinette stitch and will be folded down creating a double collar.