Nordic Socks

These socks from Animal Crossing have become a favorite of mine, so I decided to create a real-life pair for myself. Whether you play the game or just enjoy the look as much as I do, I hope you enjoy knitting up a pair of these cozy color work socks. Sizes: S (M,L) Relaxed width: 7¼(8 ⅛, 9) inches Max width when stretched at cuff: 10(11 ¼, 12 ½) inches Please choose a size that has a relaxed width that is the same as, or slightly smaller than the circumference of your foot. If you are outside the sizing chart, you can also add or remove a repeat of the charts to accommodate your size. At gauge, each 8 stitch repeat adds just under (about 9/10) of an inch. Adjust foot length to suit by adding rows just before starting the toe. Please be aware that changing the width or length of your sock will change your yarn usage as well. Suggestions for making sure you have a properly-fitting sock are found in the ‘Notes’ section below. Yarn: Emma’s Practically Perfect Sock (80% Merino, 20% Nylon). 100g/400yards in ‘Whisper’, ‘Wish You Were Beer’, and ‘Barkin’ Up The Wrong Tree’  C1: 48.5(58,67.5)g/ 194(232,270) yds C2: 11.5(13.5,15.5)g/ 46(54,62) yds C3: 17.5(18.5,20)g/ 70(74,80) yds *These yardages include 15% extra for differences in knitting and length of foot, as well as for yarn tails from joining and breaking colors* Needles: US 1 (2.25mm) needles for ribbing and sections worked in stockinette, US 1.5 (2.5mm) for color work. I suggest using Magic Loop method, or a set of DPNs.  Gauge: 35sts and 38 rows is 4”x4” in color work (not stretched) with US 1.5 (2.5mm). Use the needles that you need to achieve gauge.  Notes: - Because the color work on the cuff is least stretchy section of these socks, I HIGHLY suggest trying on your sock after completing the first 15 or so rounds of Chart A to ensure your beautiful new socks will actually fit. - A tip for placing your afterthought heel- consider putting both sets of live stitches on life lines. Andrea Mowry’s awesome video on the technique can be found here: (https://youtu.be/t00Vosm62Iw) This can both give you peace of mind that your live stitches won’t disappear and make it easier to knit a sock of the correct length. Removing the waste yarn for the heel while the live stitches are still safely on life lines allows you to try your sock on and get a much more accurate feel for any adjustments that can be made. I suggest altering the number of rows in C1 before beginning the toe if you find you need longer/shorter socks.